Right now, it would seem, lesbians are everywhere. Which isn’t to say they haven’t been for thousands of years. But lesbians have never been more visible in popular culture than at present. If 2023 was the year of the girl, could 2024 be the year of the lesbian?
Whether it’s Billie Eilish addressing her sexuality in her new album, Hit Me Hard and Soft; Tracy Chapman performing at the Grammys in custom Prada or Renée Rapp bringing the cast of The L Word onstage with her at Coachella. On screen too, lesbian representation is the gift that keeps on giving. From the BBC’s I Kissed A Girl, to Rose Glass’ gory epic Love Lies Bleeding and even Ethan Coen's latest comedy thriller Drive-Away Dolls, we’re taking over the big and the small screens.
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With increased representation – particularly when brought to us by queer women creators themselves – comes increased visibility. And with more visibility comes a reminder that there is no one way to be, look, or dress like a lesbian.
There are, of course, the stereotypes. Clothing semiotics that have evolved throughout the course of the past century, and are the result of a need for signalling to other community members. Think lesbian and your mind may conjure the image of a Dr Marten-stomping, carabiner-clinking, white vest-donning, short-haired figure. And while this image is being sported proudly by many who choose to lean into it, there is no lesbian blueprint. And the recent surge in lesbian pop culture is proof of exactly that.
‘I think that there’s a lot of variety in lesbian fashion in 2024 — but I also think that there’s a lot of intentional signalling, and intentional dressing,’ says author of Dressing Dykes and Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion, Eleanor Medhurst. ‘There’s an awareness of what clothes can do for our community, in terms of visibility but also connection with each other. I think that 2024 lesbian fashion is fun, diverse, and knowing.’
The designs of Finnish fashion designer and Central Saint Martins graduate Ella Boucht are evidence of this. Their work, which includes waistcoats, harnesses, heavy-duty belts and ties that read ‘Daddy is a dyke’, celebrates butchness and is a reclamation of the stereotype.
‘Currently, I think the oversized suit is very 2024 – though, has it ever really gone away among lesbians?’ asks Marloes Leeuw, the brain behind popular Instagram page @everylesbianandtheirfashion. ‘Wearing a tie; Calvin Klein boxer shorts; sports jerseys and sports shorts; Dickies work jackets; nice loafers – but also beat-up sneakers – are all in vogue. I think lesbian fashion in 2024 embraces a bit of everything.’
As a femme-presenting lesbian with a mood board that sits somewhere between Buffy the Vampire Slayer and the Jil Sander-inspired ‘Power Lesbians’ that Charlotte befriends in Sex and the City season 2, I’m looking to recent Fashion East talent Johanna Parv. Whilst Parv herself is not a lesbian, you can see why her slinky, practical and androgynous designs might appeal to queer women.
Elsewhere, other designers are unintentionally including lesbian codes in their work. Take Chopova Lowena’s famous kilts, held together via carabiner clip – a classic lesbian signifier that evolved from workwear. Meanwhile last year, musician Romy launched her own, deliberately queer, carabiner merch, whilst ‘The Lez Bag’ is a popular, gender-neutral accessory among London gays, also featuring, you guessed it, the humble carabiner.
Earlier this month, the BBC’s I Kissed a Girl masseria provided a microcosm of the UK’s lesbian scene – as discussed during one conversation involving golden retrievers, black cats, femmes, butches and studs. And each came with their own individual style, from Amy’s already iconic boots, to Fi’s tank top and chain. ‘It’s about unapologetically owning your identity,’ says Leeuw. Though things get more specific in the case of niche Instagram account @quirkeduphackneylesbian, who tells me: ‘A quirked up Hackney lesbian is a funny dyke who wears a 10 piece suit with a monocle to Lidl.’
Whatever your bag (Lez Bag or not), lesbian fashion in 2024 is shaping up to be just as joyous, chaotic and colourful as our relationships.
Diesel Knee-High Boots
I Kissed a Girl’s Amy Spalding quickly became the standout icon of the series – her irremovable boots in tow. When she’s not dancing on tables at La Camionera, she’s been spotted wearing a pair from Diesel, similar to these.
Sophie Hird Celtic FC Tie
London-based, Darlington-born designer Sophie Hird specialises in sportswear hybrids, has worked with Nike and even created custom shirts for Alex Scott. She’s also developed the latest kit for Whippets Football Club, in collaboration with Umbro. As well as football jerseys, she’s known for her vibrant ties, as above.
Martine Rose Football T-shirt
The Euros have kicked-off and Brits are flocking to the pubs, come rain or shine. Now I can’t speak for all lesbians, but a large majority of us are in love with – or would like to be – Leah Williamson. Similarly to I Kissed a Girl’s Fiorenza, we’ll be pulling on our best jerseys this summer, ideally this one, courtesy of Martine Rose.
Lez Bag Boo, You Lez Bag
Behold, the It-bag of London’s lesbian community, The Lez Bag. ‘I started The Lez Bag due to the dearth of gender neutral handbags at the time. I wanted a handbag, that wasn’t a bum bag, that wasn’t gendered ‘female’ or in the women’s section,’ says founder, Mr Lez. Get it whilst you can, these sell out quickly.
Uniqlo Ribbed Vest
The simple vest has been an integral part of lesbian dressing since Marlon Brando became a camp icon in 1951. Well, sort of. It became popular among the lesbian community when Bound hit screens in 1997, with a little help from a deeply queer-coded Milla Jovovich Versace Jeans campaign. Uniqlo or M&S has to be the go-to.
Sinead O'Dwyer Cotton Crop Top
Dublin-born, London-based womenswear designer Sinead O’Dwyer celebrates bodies in all their forms. Her sample size is between a UK size 18-22, with her conceptual creations seeking to challenge fashion’s perception of size and shape. She continually showcases queerness in its many forms on her catwalks, both via models and gender-blurring designs.
Ella Boucht Waistcoat
CSM graduate Ella Boucht's work strives to ‘expand the boundaries of queerness and gender.'
Chopova Lowena Chopova Lowena Green Wood checked plissé skirt
A Chopova Lowenna skirt may be the most on-trend way to style a carabiner. Popular far beyond the queer community, these pleated wool skirts have taken fashion and music circles by storm – but for some, include a discreet lesbian message.
Estonian womenswear designer Johanna Parv makes sexy, androgynous and adaptable designs that straddle both sportswear and evening-wear. The recycled nylon A-line skirt is her bestseller and is often styled over trousers with a pair of stilettos.
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