Welcome to Reality Check: a new regular franchise from the ELLE fashion editors that asks: how well do the season's biggest trends really work in the wild? This week, we explore the different ways to wear a beret, and look more cool than costume.
1999 was a big year for berets. We had Julia Roberts as Anna Scott in Notting Hill, skulking around Hugh Grant, aka William Thatcher’s book shop in a black Chanel version, complete with leather jacket and tinted glasses, all giving a masterclass in off-duty actress style. A few months later, season two, episode 12 of Sex And The City aired, where Mr Big told Carrie he was moving to Paris. How did she respond? By turning up at his apartment clutching a paper bag filled with McDonald’s and proclaiming: 'Bonjour! Voilà, le French hat! Voilà, le French fry!'
While it wasn’t enough to make him stay in New York, her red polka-dot midi dress paired with a chic black beret has lived rent-free in mine and countless other millenials' minds ever since.
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Flash-forward 25 years, we now have Emily In Paris — a woman who certainly knows her way around a hat. And with the second half of season four airing last month, Ms Cooper and her gang of expat, dripping-in-designer-label friends are undoubtedly behind the recent rise of the stereotypically French accessory.
But what if you aren’t Emily Cooper, Carrie Bradshaw or Anna Scott? Given that they are all fictional on-screen characters, it’s highly likely that you aren’t, and thus pulling off a beret for an everyday commute, corner shop run or pub sesh may feel like a bit of a stretch. But fear not: there are a multitude of ways to make a beret look cool rather than costume.
First thing’s first – the angle is everything. I tend to pull mine over to one side so that it sits level. You don’t want the hat to look too puffy or voluminous, nor tall-standing and structural. It should be clear you’re wearing a beret and not a flat-cap, baker boy or beanie hat. Choose one which has enough fabric to be able to play around with the shape, but not so much that it ends up sagging off the side or back of your head.
Next up — what to do with your hair? I have a short bob with a fringe, so wearing a beret can be a balancing act to avoid looking like Lord Farquaad from Shrek. I tend to part my fringe so that it doesn’t feel so severe and square on my forehead, and tuck one side of my bob behind my ear. I always like to leave a bit of my hairline showing at the top, but if you have longer hair, it can look great being completely hidden by the hat. Leave those lengthy locks free-flowing or tie them back in a low-pony, with a few face-framing strands hanging loose.
The most important thing to remember, though, is that it’s not a one-size-fits all approach. My best advice is to work with the style of hat you want to wear, and go with what feels best for the whole ensemble. It’s you that’s wearing it, after all.
Now that’s cleared up, feel free to experiment. You can’t go wrong with a classic black felt or wool option, and almost every high street shop or e-tailer has one on offer. Personally, I like to add a bit of embellishment. One which has been in my wardrobe for years is from Underground England — black, leather-trimmed and pierced with a giant safety pin (easy to replicate yourself at home).
These are my hacks for styling a beret in five different ways:
Embrace Your Inner Punk
To me, berets have always felt punk — they can add an edge to almost any outfit. For SS25, legendary milliner Stephen Jones is clearly on the same wavelength. The ‘Hafida’ is a lightweight, woven cap with silver rivet details covering the front. I styled it with a black slip dress, vintage biker jacket, chunky boots and a Phoebe Philo-era Chloé chain-strap shoulder bag (one of my proudest eBay finds). Sticking to one colour head-to-toe makes the distinctive look feel wearable, and more of an acknowledgement to counter-sub-cultures, as opposed to full on ‘rock chick’.
Try Preppy Patterns
If you’re worried about going too heavy metal, embrace preppy vibes instead. Tartan, houndstooth and argyle prints are all great ways to add texture to an outfit. This purple and grey beret from Dior for SS25 combines school-girl chic with subtle diamanté and pearl decoration. While I did wear it with a pussybow blouse and wool mini-dress, I added a varsity bomber jacket and platform knee-high boots for a modern streetwear twist. As previously mentioned, it’s very easy for berets to veer into costume or cosplay territory. Making your outfit super matchy-matchy, or sticking to one theme, is a sure-fire way for that to happen. Don’t be afraid to mix up the look.
Channel The Seventies
This ‘Mocha’ houndstooth beret from Lost Pattern NYC via Wolf & Badger feels perfectly autumnal. It also comes with an adjustable ribbon tie, so you can fit the hat precisely to your head. I like that it has more of a slouchy, laid-back silhouette, and paired it with a zip-through orange JW Anderson cardigan for a full Pumpkin Spice Latte fantasy. Seventies fashion is always in style, as cemented by Saint Laurent, Ahluwalia and Chloé on the catwalks this season, so it’s a great era to pull style inspiration from.
Speaking of the 1970s, a crochet hat feels like extremely risky territory — it could end up looking too craftsy or hippy (I am a fan of neither). However, this striped knitted beret from Toast is super snug-fitting, and manages to look effortlessly chic whilst keeping you warm. I wore it with a shaggy coat, graphic band t-shirt and wide-legged denim jeans, for an everyday park stroll ‘fit.
Plump For A Pop Of Red
Sometimes, simple is best, and I suppose I must own a classic, plain red beret for a reason. Can it add a pop of colour to an otherwise muted outfit? Sure. But as red isn’t going anywhere fast — as proven by everyone from 16Arlington to Simone Rocha for spring/summer 2025 — this outfit felt like a case of go hard or go home.
Red tights, red tartan skirt, red heart embellished cardigan… I guess I’ve just broken my own rule of not sticking to a theme, but rules are made to be broken. Say what you will, but it can be fun to look like an Emily Cooper wannabe. After all, who wouldn’t want to move to Paris, meet a hot chef and barely do any work in the process? Maybe dressing like her will manifest it for me.
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