If there was a common thread to Friday’s collections it was that they were filled with clothes that spark joy. Victoria Beckham drew inspiration for her ethereal daywear from a favourite Degas drawing of ballerinas, while Coperni designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant took aural cues for their jangling zipper dresses and other ‘noisy’ pieces from an experimental sonic composition by their DJ and producer friend u.r.trax. At Nina Ricci, Soko sang during Harris Reed’s effervescent presentation of bow-festooned eveningwear for all genders. And at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson proved that by altering proportions and adding sparkly brooches and jumbo pins, even everyday pieces like jeans and jumpers can be just plain fun.
The Front Row:
Friday was an indoor sunglasses kind of day on the FROW. At Loewe, Shailene Woodley, Troye Sivan, Jessie Buckley, and Kris Jenner modelled Jonathan Anderson’s playful inflated rectangular and double cat eye frames. At Nina Ricci, Zerina Akers, Munroe Bergdorf, Lisa Rinna, and Jordyn Woods all turned up in oversize styles from Harris Reed’s debut collection. Drag Race France season 2 winner Keiona served a major look pairing butterfly-shaped frames with a floor-sweeping black and white striped coat.
Later in the afternoon, Kris Jenner and Kim Kardashian arrived fashionably late to Victoria Beckham in coordinating black and pink satin slip dresses.
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Whilst waiting, there was plenty of time for guests to admire Pamela Anderson’s continuing style transformation in a sweet ankle-grazing print dress with flutter sleeves. Later that evening Emily Ratajkowski showed some skin at Coperni in a jersey gown featuring a cutout back adorned with a silver ‘ok’ emoji.
The Artist Collab:
At Loewe, creative director Jonathan Anderson continued his collaboration with the American visual artist Lynda Benglis that he began at his SS24 menswear show in June. For that show, Benglis loaned three of her monumental brass sculptures for the set. This time, she cast six new bronzes from a 2017 series of ceramic curls called Elephant Necklace to line the runway. She also created actual jewellery pieces in the form of hand bracelets, rings, and ear cuffs.
The Casting:
Friday’s shows were all about the strong finish. Ashley Graham opened the Harris Reed show back in London and yesterday she closed out the season for Reed at his sophomore Nina Ricci showing in an epic bubble hem gown featuring an exaggerated high/low hem. Kendall Jenner closed Victoria Beckham in twisted lapel suiting and thick framed glasses. And the closer of all closers, Naomi Campbell, finished out the day at Coperni.
The AI:
Campbell wore banker stripe suiting layered over a white vest top and lime green blouse, with a Humane Ai Pin attached to her jacket lapel. The mysterious wearable tech device from a startup founded by ex-Apple employees has been touted as replacement for smartphones with all kinds of wild functionalities like the ability to speak French — with proper pronunciation and everything — using an AI-made version of your voice. That’s some kind of accessory.
