You can always count on Jonathan Anderson to keep fashion weird. So it was a bit of a surprise when the opening look for his spring/summer 2024 JW Anderson collection — a grey hoodie and chino shorts — resembled a tech bro’s uniform. Of course, at JW Anderson nothing is ever one-dimensional. The proportions were ‘off’: the hoodie was shrunken as though it had been left too long in the dryer and the shorts, which gaped round the waist, looked at least two sizes too big. As it transpired, these pieces were not even made from fabric, but instead Plasticine modeling clay like you played with as a kid.

The Venue:

london, england september 16 models walk the runway at the jw anderson show during london fashion week september 2023 at the roundhouse on september 16, 2023 in london, england photo by jeff spicerbfcgetty images
Jeff Spicer/BFC/Getty Images
The show was held at the Roundhouse theatre, a Grade II* listed former railway engine shed.

Anderson returned to the Roundhouse this season, the cavernous performing arts and concert venue located in a Grade II* listed former railway engine shed. Models made their way around the aptly named circular structure that once housed a turntable for rotating locomotives.

The Casting:

london, england september 16 a model walks the runway during the jw anderson ready to wear springsummer 2024 fashion show as part of the london fashion week on september 16, 2023 in london, england photo by victor virgilegamma rapho via getty images
VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES

Alongside a crew of mostly new-ish faces, Mona Tougaard made her first runway appearance this season in one of Anderson’s signature experiments with from that looked as though a Victorian bustle had been transposed on to the front of a colour blocked knit dress. Merel Roggeveen, who walked several key shows in New York (Proenza Schouler, Khaite, Fforme), opened.

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The Front Row:

london, england september 16 suki waterhouse attends the jw anderson show during london fashion week september 2023 at the roundhouse on september 16, 2023 in london, england photo by jeff spicerbfcgetty images
Jeff Spicer/BFC/Getty Images
Suki Waterhouse at the JW Anderson SS24 show

Anderson sure knows how to pack a front row. ELLE Style Awards Performer winner Suki Waterhouse, Hayley Atwell, Gugu Mbatha-Raw, Charli XCX, Jenna Coleman, Alexa Chung, Poppy Delevingne, Jean Campbell, and the members of R&B group FLO were all present. It’s tiring just thinking about the wrangling involved.

The Collection:

london, england september 16 a model walks the runway during the jw anderson ready to wear springsummer 2024 fashion show as part of the london fashion week on september 16, 2023 in london, england photo by victor virgilegamma rapho via getty images
VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES

The opening Plasticine hoodie and shorts look was repeated twice more in playful colour combos of daffodil/cornflower and tangerine/silver. It set the tone for a very Through the Looking-glass SS24 collection in which the familiar became unfamiliar. Cargo pants ballooned at the ankle like styles favoured by Aladdin’s genie. MA-1 bomber jackets sprouted whimsical feathers. And hoodies returned in the show’s coda — this time in an elongated silhouette — offering a fresh way to do the no-trousers look.

Anderson’s wackiest accessories are viral sensations. See: the pigeon clutch from his autumn/winter 2022 men’s show that sold out instantly and later made a cameo in the hands of Carrie Bradshaw on the second season of And Just Like That... This season’s contender? A pair of moccasins set on kitten heels.