Beyond the four, well-known style capitals of the world (New York, London, Milan, and Paris), Fashion Weeks are going global, with a wide range of cities now boasting their own gatherings of top-tier and emerging design creatives. Nowhere is this more evident than in Lagos, Nigeria where recently the international style set converged to ooh-and-ahh over vividly patterned frocks and dramatically tailored ensembles, as models wearing Spring 2019 offerings stomped the runways to the polyrhythmic pulse of Afro Beat. “Lagos is such a vibrant city and LFW itself was buzzing with energy,” designer Anyango Mpinga shared of the week's events. And while it’s no secret that brands have been drawing inspiration from West Africa’s rich and diverse aesthetic traditions for a minute now, we say it’s time to go the source for looks that merge everything from traditional Ankara’s sartorial confection to of-the-moment, intentionally ironic athleisure. Check out our roundup of the 10 Lagos Fashion Week brands you need to know now.
Anyango Mpinga
The scoop: Based in Nairobi, Kenya, Mpinga imbues her eponymous collection with both a breezy modern ease and hints of sepia-toned, photo nostalgia. For Spring 2019 she has centralised her “FREE AS A HUMAN” initiative— a commitment to combating human trafficking and child labor—within the collection via the realization of whimsical hummingbird print.
Stand-out pieces: Midi-lenth shirtdess frocks
Who we’d love to see in these looks: Yara Shahidi, Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez
Fruché
The scoop: Designed in Lagos, Fruché is all about a discernibly metropolitan chic sensibility. Along with experimental wrap-tailoring techniques, the presentation made a strong case for saturated satins, captivatingly colour-blocked for maximum impact. “The colour palette, textures, fabric, and embellishment in this collection are things that remind one of Bini culture," shared Frank Aghuno, the brand’s Creative Director. "Powder blue to represent water, feathers to represent the bird of creation, burgundy from the traditional...velvet wrappers tied by Bini women.”
Stand-out pieces: Skirts and sheath dresses slashed with daring leg-baring slits
Who we’d love to see in these looks: Bella Hadid, Angela Bassett
KikoRomeo
The scoop: Named after the Kiswahili word for “Adam’s Apple”, KikoRomeo (based and manufactured in Kenya) is committed to slowing down fashion’s destructive pace in order to more ethically and sustainably create style. For spring 2019 the collection showcased dreamy tie-dyes in range of indigo tones that invoked ocean waters.
Stand-out pieces: Boiler suits and coveralls hand-dyed in breathtaking motifs
Who we’d love to see in these looks: Chloe and Halle, Jaden Smith
DNA and Neka Youth by Iconic Invanity
The scoop: Destiny and Alanis Nwadire are sister-design apples that haven’t fallen far from their mother’s stylish tree. Her brand, Iconic Invanity birthed theirs, DNA and Neka Youth respectively. For spring 2019 Destiny showed graphic sheaths equally reminiscent of Zimbabwe’s Ndebele paintings and Piet Mondrian’s geometric canvases, while Alanis fashioned play-clothes that explored the endearing charm of ruffles.
Stand-out pieces: DNA’s candy-colored totem frocks and Neka Youth’s woven T-shirts
Who we’d love to see in these looks: Kim Petras, Aquafina
Lisa Folawiyo
The scoop: Folawiyo’s brand got noticed (and stocked) by the likes of Moda Operandi as a result of her decadent embellishment of Ankara prints with beading and embroidery. Instagram (where she boasts a following of 85.3K) only fuelled her collection’s fire, as fans fell in love not only with her assortment, but her unpredictably unique personal style. For her presentation, Folawiyo featured punchy prints often realised in head-to-toe matched sets.
Stand-out pieces: Playfully printed blazers and must-have, plastic bead lady-bags.
Who we’d love to see in these looks: Tracee Ellis Ross, Leandra Medine-Cohen
Moofa
The scoop: Helmed by Fashola Olayinka, Moofa is not just an apparel collection but a micro-moda-incubator of sorts, offering everything from styling consultation to formal instruction in fashion design. This season's show brought us layered prints over lace, brights over pastels, and shine over shimmer.
Stand-out pieces: An organza ruffle-cloud cocktail dress
Who we’d love to see in these looks: Toyin Ojih Odutola, Solange Knowles
Adama Paris
The scoop: The brand’s creative helm, Adama Amanda Ndiaye, calls both Dakar, Senegal and Paris, France home and her most recent collections evidences as much. Petrol-slick jet black ciré was tailored into a myriad of complimentary shapes: some '90s club-tough, others reminiscent of the bou-bou tradition. Spy-worthy hats and bold jewellery iced the sartorial cake.
Stand-out pieces: An off-the-shoulder surplice top and massive Fulani-inspired earrings.
Who we’d love to see in these looks: Beyonce, Candice Huffine
Maki Oh
The scoop: The brand shows during New York fashion week as well, but they manage to do double-duty and still bring it on home to Lagos Fashion Week. Ease continues to be a central exploration of the collection, this season enlivened by unexpected fabric selections, in addition to knotted-and-twisted details. Sport sandals grounded the most cosmic of looks.
Stand-out pieces: A violet, metallic strapless midi-dress worthy of Prince’s “Revolution”.
Who we’d love to see in these looks: Vanessa Hong of The Haute Pursuit, Keri Washington
Nkwo
The scoop: Nkwo Onwuka’s namesake brand is at the forefront of the West African style community’s exploration of sustainable and ethically sourced fashion. Steered in this artisanal direction since it’s 2012 relocation from the UK to Nigeria, this season sees further exploration of hand-touched pieces’ unique character and beauty. Cocooned silhouettes were accented by the plaid plastic fabric of laundry bags geniously reimagined as “Gele” headdresses.
Stand-out pieces: A white muilti-tied jumpsuit
Who we’d love to see in these looks: Michelle Elie, Sonia Braga
Deola
The scoop: One of the the first Nigerian designers to garner international attention, Deola Sagoe is known for her use of couture-caliber techniques. Like 360-degree works of art, her creations leave no detail or nuance unconsidered. For Spring 2019 muted vegetal silks were cut, spiralled, panelled, and fringed, creating dresses so ornamental, they belied any need for jewellery.
Stand-out pieces: A vertically paneled, high-low hemline entrance-maker of a dress
Who we’d love to see in these looks: Rihanna, Cardi B.
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