On the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week's autumn/winter 2025 edition, the shows told a tale of two cities. One is steeped in history and tradition, and best represented by the low-key, stealth wealth aesthetic seen at Tod's and Sportmax. The other, meanwhile, is bold, playful, and fabulously in-your-face – an approach perfectly exemplified by Moschino and Versace.
In a city this multifaceted, ever-changing and endlessly alluring, designers are spoilt for choice when it comes to inspiration. Yet on both ends of the sartorial spectrum, the modern Milanese woman, in her many guises, took centre-stage as rightful muse.
FIND OUT MORE ON ELLE COLLECTIVE
Read Next
The first stop of the day's grand fashion tour was Rotonda della Besana, a late baroque building complex that is home to the oldest park in the city – and provided a stunning setting for Sportmax's AW25 show.
Here, models stepped out in a series of sleek, polished and impeccably crafted ensembles that served as a reminder of why Milanese sophisticates have been devotees of the brand since its inception in 1969. The outerwear and suiting were, as ever, particular standouts, while hints of denim, leather, snake-print and sultry cut-outs added a hint of contemporary cool for a new generation to aspire to.
Tod's, too, found fresh ways to stay true to its heritage. Entitled 'Artisanal Intelligence', the brand's AW25 show was an homage to the Italian craftsmanship that lies at its heart. Supermodel Carla Bruni set the scene in a sculptural gown made from recycled leather fragments, acting as a real-life installation conceived by Nelly Agassi that greeted guests on arrival.
It was the perfect segue into a collection which placed exquisite materials front and centre, from Pashmy suede, nappa leather and opulent shearling, to double-layer cashmere and textured knitwear – all brought to life by the brand's savoir faire. Meanwhile, multi-layered styling, updated accessories and pops of red, burgundy, lime-green and pale blue brought a fresh energy to creative director Matteo Tamburini's latest take on Milanese minimalism.
Over at Moschino, hard work and the importance of craft were also front of mind for creative director Adrian Appiolaza – though interpreted through the house's signature love of exaggeration and play. Quite literally underpinning the collection was Franco Moschino's 1992 'mannequin' dress, that inspired a theme of deconstruction as seen in 'unfinished' tailoring, inter-wrapped jumpers and dresses composed of multiple garments.
The idea of work, too, was taken quite literally, and immediately turned on its head. Workwear staples of denim, distressed leather, overalls, heavy-duty boots, suits, shirts and ties appeared distorted, or paired with purposefully incongruous elements such as polka-dot frills, bold florals, sheer hold-ups and even, in one case, a bottle of wine as a bag.
And as for the after-work portion of one's day, Appiolaza also had guests covered on that front: think duvet dresses complete with pillow hats, party pieces, sultry lingerie and, perhaps most realistically of all, Alex Consani dressed in an oversize t-shirt, taking out the trash (or, rather, carrying the brand's latest tongue-in-cheek bags).
Then, Versace closed the day with a collection of clothes that looked ready to walk straight off the catwalk and into one of the city's most glamorous nightclubs. There were plunging necklines, super-short hemlines, night-out sparkles, leathers and leopard print pieces aplenty, alongside baggy denim, black-out sunglasses and reconstituted bed spreads for the morning after to boot.
Even a couple of real-life club kids walked the show: namely, Lila Moss and Romeo Beckham, who emerged in quick succession, much to the audience's delight. Proof that some 47 years after the luxury Italian brand was first founded, the party at Versace is very much still in full swing.
ELLE Collective is a new community of fashion, beauty and culture lovers. For access to exclusive content, events, inspiring advice from our Editors and industry experts, as well the opportunity to meet designers, thought-leaders and stylists, become a member today HERE.
Clementina Jackson is Acting Site Fashion Editor at ELLE UK, working across news and features, trends, e-commerce and SEO. She was previously Fashion Editor at Cosmopolitan and Women’s Health, and Acting Digital Fashion Editor at ELLE UK, where she was named as a PPA 30 Under 30 award winner for her work on size inclusivity. An experienced fashion, travel and luxury lifestyle journalist, Clementina has also written for Harper’s Bazaar, Vanity Fair, Condé Nast Traveller, Tatler, Red and Italy Segreta.
