As the final of Alessandro Michele’s Francophilian triptych, the designer for Gucci took the brand for the first, and only, time to Paris Fashion Week.
As ever, Michele’s vision of Gucci was maximalism to the max, though after human heads and baby dragons trotted down the runway last season, the Italian designer had a heck of a show to follow.
This time around, references spanned the 21st Century showing, once again, that Gucci offers a smorgasbord of influences.
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Ever-mysterious, invites to the show were a package full of spring bulbs. Michele illuminated the press as to why he made this choice by stating, ‘If you plant them, they will turn into flowers.’
Flowers, for spring? As an invite, it’s possibly groundbreaking.
The venue was La Palace, a theatre-cum-nightclub that was Paris’ answer to Studio 54 from the late ’70s to mid ’80s.
Blessed by the presence of Grace Jones singing La Vie en Rose (reportedly surrounded by dry ice atop a pink Harley Davidson), Prince’s first gig, patrons including Karl Lagerfeld, Roland Barthes, Andy Warhol and Yves Saint Laurent and complete with waiters dressed in uniforms designed by Thierry Mugler, imagine what this theatre’s walls would say if they could talk? In Gucci's case, it might be 'leather underwear worn over trousers is so hot right now.'
Equalling the theatrics of the space were Gucci's brilliantly bizarre accessories, including a bag in the shape of Mickey Mouse's head, leather Y-front pants, and a live cockatoo named Kiki.
Michele cited the ‘theatre of contradiction’ in his show notes, and was inspired by real-life performers including experimental theatre artists Leo de Berardinis and Perla Peragallo, Dolly Parton (whose kitsch image was emblazoned on jackets, bags and more), Janis Joplin, alluded to in felt hats and, most literally, Jane Birkin.
During the show’s interlude, French singer and actress Birkin stood from her seat and sung her collaborative musical effort with ex Serge Gainsbourg, ‘Baby Alone In Babylone.’
‘Her presence was the presence of a poet,’ noted Michele after the show.
Poets, I, Tonya-esque dresses, neon, leopard and snake print, crotchless denim and theatre binoculars, Gucci SS19 truly had everything.
Daisy Murray is the Digital Fashion Editor at ELLE UK, spotlighting emerging designers, sustainable shopping, and celebrity style. Since joining in 2016 as an editorial intern, Daisy has run the gamut of fashion journalism - interviewing Molly Goddard backstage at London Fashion Week, investigating the power of androgynous dressing and celebrating the joys of vintage shopping.
