It's an unfortunate fact of life that collagen - the protein responsible for keeping our skin looking healthy and plump - depletes with age. You may have noticed the moment, likely at the cusp of your thirties, when this began to manifest on your skin, the loss of elastin, luminosity and a weakened skin barrier taking a toll on your complexion like clockwork.
Think of collagen as the epicentre of your skin's health – it holds the key to a more youthful glow and healthier-looking skin. Needless to say the beauty industry has no shortage of formulas, facials and quick-fix remedies to increase collagen levels, but between collagen-packed moisturisers and the collagen drinks filtering onto shelves, there's a lot claiming to work miracles.
Below, we spoke to consultant dermatologist for La Roche-Posay, Dr Justine Hextall, about how to effectively boost your collagen levels, the best ingredients to integrate into your routine, the treatments to try, and why simple lifestyle changes are in fact the key to boosting your collagen levels in the long run.
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What Is Collagen?
Collagen is a protein that's naturally made in the body and is often thought of as the building blocks for healthy skin. 'I think of it as the "scaffolding" of our skin, as it gives it support, firmness and a smooth fresh appearance,' shares Dr Hextall. 'The two most abundant collagen types in skin are types one and three: type one accounts for 80% of skin’s collagen and type 3 accounts for 15%,' she shares.
Why Do Collagen Levels Deplete?
'We start to lose collagen as early as our twenties, and it's thought we lose 1% of collagen per year from then on,' shares Dr Hextall, noting that fine lines, a loss of elasticity and luminosity are common signs.
The menopause, which triggers a reduction in oestrogen, also causes the loss of collagen to accelerate. 'There is rapid loss (around 30%) in the first five years post-menopause and then things start to settle again (back to 2% a year). Oestrogen plays a vital role in skin thickness, hydration, collagen and elastin synthesis. The skin and importantly fibroblasts that create collagen have oestrogen receptors so the loss of oestrogen around menopause directly affects collagen production,' she shares.
Though ageing does cause collagen levels to deplete, UV exposure and pollution are among the biggest culprits. 'The main cause of collagen loss in exposed areas of the body such as the face, neck and arms is mostly UV exposure; in these areas around 85% of ageing is considered due to external aggressors,' notes Dr Hextall.
5 Ways To Boost Your Collagen Levels
Protect from UV exposure
'As the majority of loss of facial collagen is due to external aggressors such as UV and pollution, I cannot overstate the importance of protecting against them,' says Dr Hextall. 'We focus a lot on collagen supplements, but the key is protecting what we have in view. Every day, I would recommend using anti-oxidants such as SkinCeuticals' Ce Ferulic Acid, an effective stable vitamin C that mitigates against the free radical damage of UV and pollution. I would also recommend Resveratrol, which blocks the enzyme tyrosinase to help with pigmentation, and of course, a high-factor broad spectrum sunscreen, such as the La Roche-Posay Anthelios range.'
Eat a pro-collagen diet
'Make sure your diet is full of fruits and vegetables, healthy fats and fibre to support a heathy gut microbiome and protect against inflammation and eat sufficient protein to support collagen formation,' she shares. 'Avoid sugar where possible too, as glucose spikes are pro-inflammatory and create a process called glycation which encourages the breakdown of collagen.'
Look after the skin barrier
'A damaged skin barrier is pro-inflammatory and can lead to skin ageing and loss of collagen. Don’t underestimate the importance of gentle hydrating skincare that focuses on a healthy skin microbiome,' shares Dr Hextall. 'I always layer a humectant under moisturisers to boost hydration and favour multi-weight hyaluronic acids and panthenol.'
Medik8 r-Retinoate Day And Night Serum
The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydration Support Formula
Consider your lifestyle
'We know that chronic stress is pro-inflammatory and can damage collagen,' warns Dr Hextall. 'Making sure to create time for exercise, even if that’s a daily twenty-minute walk, can make a huge difference. Prioritise sleep too, as evidence suggests that the impact of poor sleep on our health and wellbeing is even more significant than previously realised,' she adds.
Try microneedling
Microneedling works by stimulating collagen and boosting elastin, and aiding your skin's natural ability to repair itself. 'In my view one of the best collagen-boosting treatments is micro-needling, especially when combined with growth factors such as PRP ( platelet rich plasma). I have seen fabulous results in some patients but there is some variability in response,' shares Dr Hextall.
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Amelia Bell is the Multiplatform Beauty Director for ELLE UK and Harper’s Bazaar, developing beauty strategy, writing, editing, and commissioning, and leading beauty content across both sites. Amelia has a particular interest in wellness and longevity, exploring the skin-mind connection, and decoding the latest treatments, tweakments and runway trends. She also has bylines for Women's Health, Refinery29, British Vogue, Harrods Magazine, and more.
