At first glance, the words 'natural' and 'injectables' might seem like anything but bedfellows. Since the dawn of our beauty routines, rejuvenating serums and moisturisers that promise better skin health have sat on opposite ends of the spectrum to the cutting-edge and often invasive tweakments, wrinkle-relaxing injections and dermal fillers.
But when it comes to the latest non-surgical treatment taking over the aesthetics industry, polynucleotides are proof that perhaps they really can work hand in hand. Sitting at the intersection, this injectable biostimulator is claiming to provide a more natural route into the world of injectables by improving your skin over time. Some are calling it a toxin-free alternative to filler or a more compelling alternative to other skin boosters like Profhilo, while others are touting the trending treatment as a fast track to skin rejuvenation, given that it helps to boost collagen production, support hydration and add an otherworldly glow.
Sound too good to be true? We spoke to Dr Zoya Awan, a medical director and co-founder of Harley Street, and Dr Ash Soni, a trained plastic and reconstructive surgeon, and founder of The Soni Clinic, to find out why polynucleotides are gaining traction in the beauty industry right now and whether these skin boosters could actually replace some of our favourite, long-loved anti-wrinkle treatments for good.
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Below, we explore what's driving demand for this new injectable treatment, the pros and cons of polynucleotides, how they can support skin health, and who might want to consider booking in for a treatment.
What are polynucleotides?
Why are polynucleotides gaining traction in the beauty industry now?
'Polynucleotides are a powerhouse at addressing multiple skin concerns in one injection, hence their explosion in popularity,' shares Dr Awan. They don't stop at stimulating collagen or improving hydration, either. 'They work to change the cells behaviour to encourage the cells to produce more of its own elastin and hyaluronic acid as well as down-regulating inflammatory markers and modifying the pigmentation pathway,' she shares.
Dr Soni agrees that their popularity can be put down to their innovation within the aesthetics world; there isn't a treatment that can match their immediate and long-term results. They also answer consumer demands for a more natural turn within aesthetics. 'There is a movement towards natural-looking results, and more natural-based treatments. Collagen stimulation is what many are talking about in the media currently, and to have a treatment that does just that is amazing,' shares Dr Soni.
'Patients actively come into clinic stating that they want a more refreshed look, without the volumisation component, and polynucleotides do just that. The innovation behind polynucleotides is incredible, and it really is a natural way to improve our skin and tissues on a cellular level,' he states, adding that this a great option for anyone who doesn't want to go down the filler route, particularly around the under-eye area where polynucleotides can be especially effective.
How exactly do polynucleotides support skin health?
'The advantage of Ameela polynucleotides (the most popular treatment) is that they significantly boost collagen and elastin, and improve the skin quality and health, which is what many want these days,' shares Dr Soni.
'We have seen improvements in redness for those suffering from rosacea who don’t want any of the downtime associated with laser and light based treatments or have very sensitive skin,' adds Dr Awan. 'Polynucleotides can add volume to the delicate under-eye area by encouraging the skin to produce its own hyaluronic acid rather than relying on the HA from filler, and it can also improve the pigmentation associated with certain causes of dark circles,' she notes.
Are they a more effective alternative to anti-wrinkle injections?
Polynucleotides are not necessarily a sure-fire thing to replace existing and popular aesthetic treatments. 'Polynucleotides are not here to replace toxins, however they work synergistically with them,' agrees Dr Awan. 'Toxins address the muscle layer which contributes to certain types of skin wrinkles and polynucleotides address the skin wrinkles due to dehydration and loss of collagen and elastin,' she shares, noting that when combined, they can address myriad skin concerns. They can, however, be a replacement for dermal fillers.
Are there any drawbacks to note?
'As with any injectable treatment, there are always some risks and they should not be used in pregnant or breastfeeding women or under 18s simply as there is not enough data to support use in these demographics,' shares Dr Diwan. 'Additionally, due to their role as a biostimulator, which gets your body to mount its own response, we do not recommend it in people with uncontrolled autoimmune diseases,' she continues.
Like all injectable treatments, it's imperative that you seek out a trained professional to carry out the procedure too. 'Providers must be extremely experienced with anatomy, because we are still dealing with the face here,' warns Dr Soni. 'There are many providers on social media who are saying there are no risks associated with polynucleotides - that is not true. The risks can be much lower than other injectable procedures, however, it all depends on the provider, their experience, and their technique,' he shares.
Are all polynucleotide treatments created equal??
Typically taking a few sessions, which can be spaced out over numerous weeks, there are a number of different polynucleotide treatments doing the rounds. The most popular of which, Ameela, is a pure polynucleotide treatment. Dr Soni recommends Ameela for this reason as it contains the longest chain of polynucleotides, meaning 'the results last longest,' he says.
Meanwhile, Dr Awan also advocates for VITARAN. 'I love offering VITARAN to patients looking to reduce dark circles and rejuvenate the under-eye area. It has a unique formulation of polynucleotides, which consists of filtered, ultra-purified, and sterilised DNA fragments sourced from trout, and the high concentration of polynucleotide in this brand is super effective at brightening the eye area while promoting higher HA synthesis,' she says.
'The formulations and quality of the product is a huge part of whether the treatment will be successful, and personally in my practice, I only choose products that are based on science,' shares Dr Soni.
Far from a quick cosmetic cover up, polynucleotides could prove an effective adjunct to your skincare routine if you're looking to restore your dermis on a deeper level.
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Amelia Bell is the Multiplatform Beauty Director for ELLE UK and Harper’s Bazaar, developing beauty strategy, writing, editing, and commissioning, and leading beauty content across both sites. Amelia has a particular interest in wellness and longevity, exploring the skin-mind connection, and decoding the latest treatments, tweakments and runway trends. She also has bylines for Women's Health, Refinery29, British Vogue, Harrods Magazine, and more.
