While the UK's summer vibes are fleeting, a tanning oil is the last thing we're reaching for this heatwave. Alongside a tidy pedicure, fresh highlights and a joyful set of nails, post-sunbathing glow is one of the most coveted accessories during a heatwave; it makes the temptation to spend hours in the garden all the more alluring. However, by now the risks associated with sunshine and tanning are well established in our brains, and we know better than to sit idly under UV rays without a full blanket of SPF protection.
Despite this, controversial tanning oils have still managed to retain their popularity, regardless of the scientific evidence stacked up against them. We asked expert dermatologists Dr Anjali Mahto and Dr Angela Tewari for their verdict on tanning oils, the risks associated and whether we should be ditching them entirely for summer 2025.
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How Tanning Oils Work
While some tanning oils contain SPF, it's vital to understand that these don't equate to 'safe' tanning.
'Tanning oils work by attracting and concentrating UV rays onto the skin, speeding up melanin production - the pigment responsible for tanning,' says Consultant Dermatologist and Founder of Self London Dr Anjali Mahto. 'They often contain ingredients that enhance this process, such as carrot seed oil or tyrosine. Some formulas include a low level of sun protection, but 99% of the time they are usually far below what’s recommended for safe exposure.'
In short, tanning oils intensify UV absorption, promoting a faster tan. However, Mahto flags that they also significantly increase the risk of sunburn and, in turn, long-term skin damage.
The Safety Risks Of Tanning Oils
When it comes to weighing up the risks, the outcome is simple. Tanning oils are not considered safe by dermatological standards, according to Mahto.
'Tanning oils encourage prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, which accelerates skin ageing, suppresses immune function, and raises the risk of all forms of skin cancer - including melanoma,' she says. 'Many contain little to no meaningful sun protection, leaving the skin vulnerable to burning. Even with added sunscreen, using tanning oils often leads to inadequate coverage and gives a false sense of safety.'
Is It Possible To Get A Tan Safely?
Unfortunately, no tan is truly 'safe' as tanning in itself is a visible sign of skin damage.
'The concept of 'safe tanning' is somewhat of a contradiction,' says Dr Angela Tewari, consultant dermatologist at The Lister Hospital. 'Any change in skin colour from UV exposure indicates damage has occurred to your skin. That said, the safest approach is to use a high-protection sun cream- at least SPF 30-50 with good UVA coverage - and limit your sun exposure to short periods. Self-tanning products or spray tans offer the aesthetic benefits without the harmful UV exposure, making them a genuinely safer alternative to achieve that sun-kissed look.'
There are now plenty of self-tanning options on the market, too. From gradual moisturisers that envelope the skin in a light, sunlit colour, to instant mousse formulas that impart a rich tan in less than two hours, the menu is vast. It's just about finding the texture that works for you.
Does SPF Prevent You From Tanning?
As previously mentioned, a tan is an indicator of sun-induced skin damage, the very thing that SPF is designed to defend against.
'Sunscreen significantly reduces your skin’s exposure to UV rays, but it doesn’t completely block them (especially when not applied correctly or reapplied regularly). As a result, some tanning can still occur, albeit at a slower rate,' explains Mahta. 'That said, the goal of sunscreen is to protect against damage, not to facilitate tanning. If you’re applying enough and reapplying as needed, tanning should be minimal - which is what we want from a skin health perspective.'
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Katie Withington (she/her) is the Beauty Writer, at ELLE UK and Harper’s Bazaar. Working alongside the ELLE UK Beauty Team, she covers all things beauty for both print and digital, from finding backstage make-up trends at London Fashion Week and investigating buzzy skincare ingredients, to unzipping the beauty bags of Hailey Bieber and Margot Robbie. Prior to joining ELLE UK in 2022, Katie studied (BA) Fashion Journalism at London College of Fashion and has previously contributed to Red, Good Housekeeping and Prima.
