After a quick glance at the spring/summer 2024 shows, you'd be forgiven for thinking that you'd stepped back in time to the Jazz Age. From New York to London, designers including Giorgio Armani and Yuhan Wang sent models down the runway in unique iterations of the classic finger wave hairstyle, making one thing clear: the decadence of the 1920s is back.
However, this time, the traditional hairstyle was given a thoroughly modern update, paired with contemporary fashion, minimal makeup and often deconstructed to bring the look – and those Roaring Twenties vibes – firmly into the 2020s.
Really, there's never been a better time to revisit the 1920s. The period of postwar social revolution is perhaps best known for its flamboyant, frivolous celebrations – think The Great Gatsby, flapper girls and coupe glasses of bubbling champagne. So, one hundred years on, it makes sense that designers are echoing this sentiment, bringing some much-needed high-octane glamour back into our lives after years of, well, turbulence, to say the least… We can surely all agree that we're ready for a party.
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Fortunately, your going out-out hairstyle is sorted. The updated finger waves are easier to achieve than you'd think, and are a way of bringing classic glamour into your look. These are the standout looks from the SS24 runways, along with some styling tips from the pros. Now all you need to do is find a party to go to…
The Classic Curl
The Look: In Milan, Giorgio Armani showed perhaps the most traditional take on the trend, with models' hair styled into short, sculptural finger waves by hairstylist Roberta Bellazzi.
What makes the look wearable is the finish: rather than keeping each wave neatly secured, Bellazzi left the ends to gently curl on their own with a few loose flyaways for a 'disassembled and deconstructed' look. Think of it as though you've been at a Jazz Age party for a few hours already, (quite literally) letting your hair down.
The Method: To create a tradition finger wave hairstyle, discover celebrated hairstylist Guido Palau’s guide here. But be sure to allow the ends to curl on their own, rather than setting them close to the scalp for that slightly 'undone' look seen on the runway.
The Romantic Wave
The Look: At Yuhan Wang, Adam Garland put a softer spin on the gelled hairstyle, allowing models' natural hair textures to influence the look. Similar to the 1920s style, the focus remained on the front of the hair, setting fringes into curls that artfully waved across foreheads. 'Where needed, we added fake bangs, which allowed us to cut them into dishevelled shapes, creating a modern look,' explains Garland.
The Method: 'Prep with more products than you would normally use,' says Garland, who used Authentic Beauty Concept on models. 'We mixed products to create depth and texture while maintaining a lightness to the hair: Enhancing Water, Nymph Salt Spray and Amplify Mousse all served as a great base.'
To enhance the hair's natural texture, Garland first blow-dried hair out before adding in 'irregular texture with a 25mm Babyliss tong then halfway through, dropping to a 19mm tong'.
If, like some of the models, you don't have a fringe to style, Garland encourages you to 'be brave and buy a clip-on fringe from American Dream UK. Take it to your next salon visit and ask your stylist to reduce the bulk if needed. Then style with a small tong, going in random directions.' Leave the rest of your hair down, mimicking the runway look and consider yourself event-ready.
The Modern Slick
The Look: At Jason Wu, hairstylist Jimmy Paul propelled the 1920s look directly into the future, with 'a messy wave in front and wet ends, like a very "done" look that was rained on'. Instead of multiple uniform waves along the hairline, Paul simplified the look into one or two that swept dramatically across the forehead. The shiny, wet-look finish remained, while ends were left covered in product to form everything from natural curls to poker-straight spikes, providing contemporary contrast. Admittedly, this is the most 'out-there' interpretation, but it's a great experiment to try the next time you're heading somewhere after dark for a grungy finish.
The Method: 'Start with a deep side part. This will immediately give dramatic effect,' says Paul. 'These finger waves were messy on purpose. It’s really about making a flattering shape on your face.'
Paul adds that 'the products do a lot of the work – use one that is easy to manipulate', such as TRESemmé Mega Hold Gel, which he used backstage on models as it 'works well on many hair types'. For those with very curly hair, Paul suggests 'straightening your hair first and using styling pomade for a similar look' and added hold.
