Valentino Does Casual Couture and It Is Brilliant

Pierpaolo Piccioli makes it look easy. His spring 2018 collection for Valentino was a triumph. Since taking the reins as the solo creative director in 2016, following the departure of Maria Grazia Chiuri to Dior, Piccioli continues to evolve and outdo himself with each collection.

For spring summer 2019, the show began with a series of all black cotton looks, all the better to emphasize the couture silhouettes—sloped shoulders, billowy sleeves and sculpted round backs. From there the collection seamlessly transitioned into more casual separates like logo tops and pleated skirts, simple trench coats, crisp white blouses, and belted day dresses. The pieces retained that couture sensibility in their silhouette but felt imminently wearable. (There were pockets!) I know I wasn't the only one in the room who thought these looks might do well to replace the void left by Phoebe Philo for intellectual, effortless work wear. It was as if Piccioli was saying to Philo-phytes, I got you. But he never abandoned the brand's hallmarks: the vivid Valentino red evening wear, the boldly printed floor-skimming gowns, and the airy tulle red carpet creations at the end. Giant hats studded with feathers, and dramatically bejeweled eyes and ruby lips upped the showmanship of it all. Piccioli received the rare standing ovation following the show. And it was very well-deserved.