An Exploration of Art, High and Low, at Marni Spring 2019

After two years at the helm of Marni—the Italian designer was appointed creative director in late 2016—Francesco Risso's confidence is gaining momentum. At first a parade of unfinished hems in muslin-like neutrals seemed to reference a workmanlike aesthetic—a quiet, this-is-how-the-sausage-is-made wink. Soon, though, the rather complex and exquisite Grecian draping gave way to playful and bombastic patterns: silks are splashed with fine art torsos, busts, portraits, and even daubs of paint; hems are adorned with beads, sequins and chains (threads still visible, of course). A clutch of feminine, nipped waist gowns in soft pastels rounded out the show, just right for those who come to Marni to feel like a lady—a very cool lady indeed.