Sabyasachi Mukherjee knows how to throw a party. Last night, the designer invited 700 well-heeled guests to the Jio World Centre in Mumbai to celebrate the 25th anniversary of his namesake line. For the uninitiated, Mukherjee is a man who takes great pride in India’s maximalist aesthetic—and his gatherings are no exception. The raw space was transformed to resemble the impressive interiors of one of his museum-like stores. (To give a sense of scale, consider his 30,000-square-foot Mumbai flagship, which boasts over 100 chandeliers, nearly 300 rugs, 3,000 books, and at least 150 works of art, which serve as an impressive backdrop to the colorful ready-to-wear, bridal gowns, jewels, and accessories that fill the four-story space.)
“This is total Indian panache and opulence,” decreed famed French fashion editor and stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele as she took in the party’s surroundings, including a stately table stretching the length of the venue that overflowed with cakes, pastries, fruits, and charcuterie. An army of waiters in pink turbans passed small plates of kebabs and tikkas and ensured everyone’s champagne flutes were brimming with Dom Pérignon
At around 10 P.M., attendees, including Bollywood actress Alia Bhatt and members of India’s famed Ambani family—all dressed in “strictly black” per the invitation’s instructions—filed into an adjacent area for the main event: a fashion show of epic proportions. The set was made to look like Calcutta, Mukherjee’s home city, where he employs thousands of local artisans. He said he took his time creating this collection—six months, to be exact—and attributed it to the women who have influenced him: his grandmothers, Coco Chanel, Frida Kahlo, Gayatri Devi, Jackie O., and Madonna.
The parade of 157 looks made for a robust offering. Think: slouchy bouclé separates, deftly embroidered minidresses, full skirts, and brocade overcoats that would certainly turn a head or two come winter. Decadence was the recurring theme, with faux fur, semiprecious stones sewn into coats, and heaving clusters of jewelry adorning each look. T-shirts embroidered with sequin-encrusted phrases like “Where Has the Love Gone” and “Please Stay” were a cheeky departure for the brand. Applause broke out from the crowd when the surprise closer appeared: Christy Turlington Burns in a black turtleneck and voluminous cream-colored pants, accessorized with loads of Desperately Seeking Susan-era cuffs, pearl necklaces, and crosses.
“We started working with Sabyasachi about five years ago at Bergdorf’s,” said Linda Fargo, who, like Cerf de Dudzeele and a gaggle of editors, had flown in from New York for the occasion. “Not only were we drawn to the beauty, but we also have nothing like this in our Western world. I said to Sabya: ‘You are not just Sabyasachi. You are a representative and an emissary. There is a lot on your shoulders.’”
If Mukherjee was feeling any pressure, he didn’t show it. Before the show, he even greeted his guests on the runway. Afterward, he exhibited the same level of calm, even if he was bracing for a flurry of reactions. “It’s a shock and a surprise for many people who thought this would be a bridal collection,” he said with a laugh. “We’re really planning for global expansion, especially in our jewelry and accessory lines, which are growing. I am enjoying myself. I’m happy about it all.”
Sarah Cristobal is a writer, editor, and creative consultant. She was formerly the executive editor of InStyle and has also held top positions at Harper’s Bazaar and V. Currently, she serves as editor-at-large for 10 Magazine USA, among other freelance projects. She has consulted for brands including Carolina Herrera, Neiman Marcus, Flamingo Estate, and more.
